Farewell, Rishikesh!

So here we are.... the last day in Rishikesh! And it was a beautiful cool, cloudy, breezy one. 

The day started with one last awesome yoga class. Today he made us do Sarvangaasana and Halasana, which I thought were just the perfect highlight to wrap the retreat with. When it did end, my fellow yoginis and I felt pretty sad, and all we could do was thank our good teacher profusely. 

I had a couple of hours to kill before leaving for the airport, so I spent it at the poolside, reading my book and enjoying the wonderful weather. When it was time to leave, I went around to say goodbye to everyone at the hotel who made my stay so wonderful - the owner, the managers, the receptionists, the waiters, the restaurant manager, the security guard - all of them who took such good care of me for the last one week. My fellow yogini mentioned, "I wonder whether the owner realizes how good his staff are" and I couldn't agree more!

The rest of the day passed by eventlessly - it was travelling all the way, and I had the "Palace of Illusions" by Chitra Banerjee Divakaruni for company. I absolutely LOVED the book which narrates the epic Mahabharatha from Draupadi's perspective. It is a terrific read. 

So yes, that's the end of my much awaited yoga retreat. I am so happy I did this and very thankful for the support system (namely the hubby and the helper) that I have that made it possible. 

Now it's time to get back to Singapore and then to a whirlwind shooting schedule in Abu Dhabi starting next week. It's going to be so different from the relaxed, quiet time I have had the past week but thanks to it, I feel prepared for what's coming up. 

Until next time, Rishikesh! 

Backbends, 13 Storey Temples And Tibetan Chants!

Today's the sixth day of the retreat, officially the finally one. I say "officially" because as per the original schedule, tomorrow is travel day with no yoga classes. And sure enough, tomorrow I will be making my way back to Singapore, but given that I would be leaving the hotel only at 1pm, the teacher kindly offered to continue with morning lessons as per normal routine. I was so thrilled! One extra class! That really made me feel a little less blue about the looming end of the retreat. 

Both yoga classes today, once again, proved to be challenging but incredibly fulfilling. My favourite part was when, to improve our backward bends during Bhujangasana or Cobra Pose, the teacher asked us to inch closer to a wall and to press our chests and stomachs against it as much as we can - this ensured that we were bent backwards beyond 90 degrees! It was A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! I had no idea my spine could so quickly get to that stage! 

I took the whole morning slow - just lounged about in the hotel, packed and read one more book, this time another of R. K. Narayan's work "Sampath, the printer of Malgudi". 

After the second yoga class, I set out for my last outing around Rishikesh, not without a heavy heart at the prospect of it being the last one. I went back to Lakshman Jhula and visited a 13 story temple right next to it. This one adorns pretty much all photos of Lakshman Jhula, thanks to its height, beautiful architecture and strategic location right next to the bridge. It had several dieties on each floor, with many of them lined up in a row of shrines from one end to the other. Interestingly enough, in the lower 5-6 floors, it also had a lot of shops interspersed with the shrines that sometimes I would go and pray to one by mistake. Weird. But the top floors were really nice - with single shrines featuring one Shivalinga each and offering some spectacular views of the Ganges below, the lovely bridge across it, the mountains beyond, and several ashrams, temples and shops around. My most favourite part was watching many yogis and yoginis practicing with dedication on the roof tops of the yoga training centres around. I loved it! Again, except for the priest, I was the only one around. I guess few people want to venture up 12 flights of stairs, when there are plenty of other temples at ground level all around. I took the opportunity to sit and meditate in that perfect atmosphere. 

Afterwards, I went back to the row of Tibetan shops we had come across yesterday. I wanted to explore them a bit further because I was so fascinated by all the unique stuff they had to offer. I walked into one shop run by a darling little lady called Dolma. She explained to me what the designs on some of the things meant, and I picked up a pendant that was designed in one of the eight holy Tibetan signs and conveyed "Never Ending / Infinite Love" and one that looked like a prayer wheel with a Tibetan chant on it wishing "Never Ending Happiness". I loved them both! I also caught her humming a beautiful melody as I was looking through her wares, and later when I asked her to sing it again for me, she was so shy and insisted to do so only with the accompaniment of the original song on her phone. The song she was singing was Nepalese, but she had no idea what it meant. She told me that they spend 8 months in Rishikesh every year but when it gets too hot, she goes to Bhutan.  There was something so sweet and charming about here... I really had a great time talking to her! 

By the time I was done shopping, it was already dark, so I made my way back to the hotel. But not before I picked up a few more books from that lovely little book shop. I bought more of R. K. Narayan and Chitra Banerjee Divakaruni and felt really good about it. 

Even though it was dark, I made my way back to the hotel very, very slowly because I didn't want the walk to end. But all good things have to come to an end, so I just got myself to enjoy every bit of that last walk around. 

One more yoga class tomorrow and then it is time to say goodbye to this wonderful, wonderful place! 

From Asanas to Jala Neti!

After much activity yesterday, I took the day easy and didn't venture out in the morning. Instead, I spent it in the room and completed all the the storyboarding and scheduling work. I can now say that I personally am 100% ready for the shoot next week! 

Both the yoga classes today were challenging and I got to try a few new things.

First was the Chakrasana or Wheel Pose - I used to be able to do this on my own a long time ago, but recently I had hardly attempted it nor do I think I would have been able to do it, even if I tried. But thanks to the wonderful teacher here, not only was I able to hoist myself up (he pulled me up with a belt at first), but also could strongly remain in that position for a while. It felt awesome! 

Second was the Padmasana or Lotus Pose - Even before coming here, I could get myself into a Padmasana but it had never been a comfortable posture for me, and I would be able to hold it only for 30 seconds to a minute before my ankles and feet scream in pain and I get out of the posture in relief. But today, in the class, I held it for a good 15 minutes and also could get myself to bend forward and touch the forehead on the ground even as I was seated in Padmasana! Great progress! 

Third was the Hanumanasana or the Splits Pose - I had always wanted to be able to do the split but never really learnt how to. Today, with a lot of warm up as guided by the teacher, I managed to get into the widest split I could ever get into till date. I was still not able to get into it a 100% but the teacher said that I am very, very close to it and just a little bit more practice and I can do it! Exciting!!

Last but not the least, we practiced Jala Neti - the nose cleansing or sinus irrigation technique wherein you take warm salt water through one nostril, and drain it through the other nostril. It is supposed to cleanse your nasal passage, clear nasal allergies, sinuses, even help with tired eyes! I was so thrilled and was surprised to see how much of junk was actually released from the nose, post the routine. It felt SO GOOD! Good news is that we also got our own individual Neti pots each, so now I can try it out in Singapore too! 

After the second terrific yoga class for the day, I decided to walk until the Ram Jhula, which was about 2 kms away. I was accompanied by the two girls who are also part of the same retreat as me, and we walked to the Lakshman Jhula first, crossed over and took the footpath all the way to Ram Jhula. On the way we came across a lovely Tibetan shop that had a gorgeous, very unique range of accessories and curios. We picked up a couple of things and walked on to the Ram Jhula. 

At Ram Jhula, it was once again back to the alley of shops, hordes of cows, dogs, monkeys, sadhus, pilgrims, tourists, yogis and what not. To our amusement, one of the girls was approached by a professional "ear cleaner" who offered to clean her ears (no, it wasn't a joke, he actually does that for a living) . She said, "That is the weirdest thing I have ever been asked"! 

I wanted to attend the Ganga Aarti on the opposite shore today. Yesterday  I had noticed that it is much less crowded here and wanted to check it out. So we crossed over the Ram Jhula and joined a small group of people for the Aarti on the opposite shore. And it was a beautiful, beautiful experience! For starters, there were hardly any people. The Aarti was done by three boys who performed a synchronized routine to some lovely chants and music, with huge, spectacular lamps - my favourite being one that was shaped like a hooded cobra! They were so elegant, I could watch them all day long but I took some time to meditate and chant as the routine progressed. 

As I watched the Aarti, one of the volunteers handed me a big lamp to do few rounds of the Aarti myself and at that point in time, with the Ganga flowing slowly, majestically, in front, with the mountains beyond darkening from the setting sun, the chants ringing in my ears and the flame of the lamp ensuing a brilliant light around me, I felt so contented, so happy, that I think my eyes actually welled up. 

After the Aarti, we got the flower and camphor flame offerings, which we left adrift in the Ganga and watched it float away carrying a little bit of light each in the dark waters. 

We took an autorickshaw back and after a meal of "vegetable seekh kebabs" and some hot Bournvita, I tucked myself into bed with my book of the day - R. K Narayan's "The World of Nagaraj". It is such a wonderfully simple and funny tale - I actually caught myself laughing out loud at many poins! If R. K. Narayan were alive, I definitely would have visited him and given him a huge hug! 

Any day in Rishikesh comes to an end, and I am getting increasingly sad about the though of leaving soon. But I know I will come back, so for now, I will make the most of the remaining time in this wonderful place. 

From Sunrise At Kunjapuri to Sunset With Ganga Aarti!

I woke up at 4:30am and by 5am, a cab was waiting to take me to the Kunjapuri temple. Situated at a height of 1920 feet and 25 kms away from Rishikesh, I had heard that it offers a spectacular view of the mountains around, especially during sunrise. 

So we set off, with the stars above and the stillnes of the dark night around. Save for a few trucks, there was hardly any traffic on the roads, and we had a smooth drive up the mountains. It was pitch dark when we started but by the time we got to Kunjapuri, the first rays of the sun had lighted up the sky and the last few kilometeres offered breathtaking views of the mountains rising above and the plains below, with the Ganga snaking through it. The cabbie had been playing some really nice devotional music throughout and I felt completely at peace as I took in the views. 

When we got to Kunjapuri, it was cold with a strong, chilly breeze and I had to brave a really long flight of stairs before I could get to the temple. Especially with the altitude and the cold, I found that not an easy task. But once up at the temple, the breathlessness from the exertion made way to breathlessness seeing the gorgeous backdrop of the quaint, serene temple. The only sounds that accompanied the beautiful sight were that of the breeze, chirping of a hundred birds and the gong of the temple bell that reverberated across as I struck it. 

I realized that I was the first visitor for the day. It was just me, a couple of priests and what seemed like their families on top. So in a way I had the whole temple to myself and I prayed to my mind's content. I had picked up a puja thali (plate) with offerings for the Goddess and once the priest took all offerings, he replaced it with a coconut and packets of puffed rice and sugar balls as prasad. As I walked out of the shrine, a darling little dog started following me, clearly for the eatables on my puja plate. I opened up the packet of the puffed rice and gave it to him, but he politely declined it and continued to follow me hopefully. Then I realized I had a dog with a sweet tooth on hand and what he really wanted were the sugar balls. So I gave those to him which he eagerly lapped up, after which he unceremoniously stopped following me. 

I kept walking around the temple, taking in the views in all directions, and soon there it was - a huge red ball of the sun rising up from beyond the mountains. It was the sunrise I had so badly wanted to see. But when it started to happen, instead of watching it, I wanted to close my eyes, while allowing the warm rays to fall upon me. 

I sat on a metal bench facing the sun, watching it rise, meditating and chanting in turns. At one point in time, while I had my eyes closed, I felt a movement next to me. I opened my eyes to see a baby monkey stealing off some of the leftover puffed rice on my puja plate! As soon as he saw me watching, the naughty little thing ran away. So I left the plate on the bench, got up and stood a short distance away and continued enjoying the sunrise and chanting. After I was done, I walked back to the bench and sure enough, the plate was now completely empty without even a grain of rice left in it. The little one had done his job well. 

After spending a good hour in the peace and quiet of the temple and making friends with two little kids who helped me break the coconut prasad, I walked back down the stairs. Half way down there was a "Maggi Cafe" where I helped myself to a cup of refreshing masala tea and then it was time for the drive back. Now with the sun completely up and the skies fully lit up, the drive offered a different view and I enjoyed it thoroughly, wanting it to never end. 

Back at the resort, it was time for my morning routine of yoga class, breakfast and shower and a short walk to the Lakshman Jhula and back. By the time I was back, I was completely exhausted from the early morning rise, the climbing of stairs and all the walking and I collapsed into my bed and napped right away. 

I woke up just in time for the afternoon yoga class, which thankfully wasn't too strenuous. After two rounds of sun salutations on each side, he made us do different kinds of pranayama or breathing exercises and also got us to meditate. 

And then I set off once again, this time for the Ganga Aarti. Different ashrams and temples around Rishikesh hold evening prayers to the holy river Ganga and the biggest prayer in Rishikesh is held at the Paramartha Ashram. The hotel arranged for an auto-rickshaw to take me there. From where the rickshaw dropped me, it was another flight of stairs and a walk of about 750 mts, which including walking through the Ram Jhula (the other long hanging bridge of Rishikesh), alleys of shops, temples and ashrams - all of which were alive and vibrant with pilgrims and tourists and yoga enthusiasts. I loved the energy! 

At the beautiful Paramartha Ashram, the bhajans preceeding the Aarti had already begun and I joined the big group that had gathered along Ganga's shore. Again, I meditated as they sang, and then once I was done, watched the sun set beyond the river. Soon the Aarti began and several big lamps were being swung in a circular motion in respect of the holy river. It was a fascinating sight but I have to say that I was a bit taken aback by how much of it was "touristy" vs. spiritual. Even though many folks seemed to focus on the prayers, the vast majority, including a few sadhus and people donning the orange robes, were more interested in taking selfies or posing with the aarti lamps. I wished I was in a pre-camera era when the atmosphere would have been so different and I do think they should be banning videography and photography in those premises.  

I was also heartbroken to realize that the huge Shiva statue that graced the waters in that spot before, had been washed off in last year's floods. I was really looking forward to seeing that utterly magnificent statue and had no idea it was no longer there. I believe the guy who passed on this information saw the heavy disappointment on my face, so he helpfully told me that, if I walk down all the way to the other end of the Paramartha Ashram, I can see two other white Mahadeva (Shiva) statues. I thought, might as well. So I walked in to the ashram in search of the statues, and I didn't see two but many more. They had a few really, really amazing statues of the Mahadeva in various Thandava (dance) postures. They were spectacular. I also saw the two white ones the guys had mentioned and at the end of it all, felt a little better and less disappointed. 

By the way, I must also mention that I am really enjoying speaking Hindi here. I had picked up conversational Hindi in college from my future husband and our friends and this is the first time I am really use it left, right and centre. So when I hear new words which I have only learnt in school but never really used before, I feel excited! When the guy was explaining where I would find the Mahadeva statue, he said I had to walk across the "Bageecha" (garden) and I was so amused because the last time I had heard that word was in some story in class five or so! So I did walk through the bageecha and not only find the statues, but also saw a few people scattered across, practicing their yoga in the bageecha. Gosh, I love this place! 

Soon I walked back the whole way - through the bageecha, out of the ashram, through the shops and alleys and temples (where there were more aartis happening and prayers and chants and gongs were vibrating all across the area), across the Ram Jhula, up the flight of stairs, finally to an auto rickshaw that was waiting for me. The temperature had dropped significantly and there was a chilly wind blowing, and even as I sat in the rickety auto rickshaw that made it a point to jump over every gutter and pothole (and there were plenty of them), I couldn't feel happier. 

By the time I got back to the hotel, I was ready to drop from exhaustion but I first ordered myself some more masala chai and some hot kichdi and then got hooked on to my Chitra Banerjee Divakaruni book again (it's called "Oleander Girl, by the way). I went to bed only past midnight after I successfully finished ready it. I have lapped up three books so far on this trip! 

Another wonderful day comes to an end. 

Week 2: Trailer, Cooking, Guitar, Films, Books & Family!

3 - 9 February, 2014

It's been another fantastic week with a lot of new, exciting developments.

Firstly, I got to see the first cut of the Aravindum Aarumughamum trailer, done by the guy who plays one of the lead characters (who also happens to be cinematographer for my previous films). This is the most progress I have seen on anything regarding the film since last December, so that was exciting. It was also exciting to see that with just a few minor tweaks, we would be very much ready with a full blown trailer. Can't wait!

Secondly, I cooked. Yup, these things do happen. I think the last time I cooked was probably two years ago. So yes, it is a rare but not unlikely occurrence. I had a sudden urge to make something on my own. It is probably because one of my fears is that the little one will go to school and all her friends would talk about their respective mother's home made yummy food and my girl would wonder what on earth that means. Another reason was that a friend of mine was turning 30 and I wanted to do something nice for him. And somehow "something nice" meant cooking on my own. Wonder what stretch of imagination that was. Another reason is also that I kinda felt like I missed all those lovely fragrances that waft off the in-progress dishes as the spices meet the vegetables, the fun sounds of the mustards and green chillis cracking and popping in the hot oil (a frequent phenomenon in Indian cooking), and the blast of steam and conclusive smell of a ready meal as you lift off the lid post some slow heat cooking. Like I said, these things do happen. So I made Black Pepper Chicken and Kerala Egg Roast, while my helper made rice and dal. My guinea pigs were the hubby, the friend who turned 30 as well as my brother in law. I had cooked a lot and everything was pretty much consumed. I think that's always a good sign. Oh and yes, the little one seemed to appreciate the black pepper chicken too. There is indeed hope.

Thirdly, I have started to take guitar lessons. I have had one lesson so far - I found an experienced teacher to come over for an hour every Sunday morning. My first class was great! It was great to be back on the instrument, and the tutor seemed rather impressed by my "skill". I think he was expecting a total beginner and the fact that I could read notes and play basic chords took him by surprise. Anyway, I was happy that he was happy. More importantly, it was felt SO good to be playing music! He made me play lead while he strummed the accompaniment and we sounded good! Similarly he sang while I followed with some simple chords and I thought that sounded good too. The guitar is seriously an awesome instrument and I am thrilled that I am back at it! I have to admit that soon the bubble was popped when he gave me a touch piece to work on. I am used to the pick, but he encouraged me to use the fingers for the strumming, which I really struggled with. So that's my homework for this week. Long way to go, but great start. And yes, I am glad that I had that realization.

Some of the other things I enjoyed over the week was the film Hasee Toh Phasee and the book Mango Cheeks & Metal Teeth. The former was a refreshing romantic comedy with some stellar performances and thankfully, completely clean, intelligent and genuine and I was happy to watch at least one such Indian film after a really long time. The latter was something I had picked up from the airport recently and would not have been my cup of tea had it not been based in Kerala, where I come from. The author has used an ample amount of Malayalam words (it is an English novel), had some good character building, and lot of nostalgic references to Kerala of the 80s. Even though the plot was good, the conclusion was pretty abrupt and unsatisfying, but an interesting read nevertheless.

Discovery of the week was Saveur, a French restaurant in Purvis street. That was where the friend who turned 30 treated us for his birthday. While their food was just decent, I found their desserts absolutely top notch! Pistachio Pannacotta, Cookies & Milk (which was literally a cookie drowned in milk) and Caramel Lava cake were all to die for! I definitely do see myself going back in there.

Last but not the least, I am thoroughly enjoying my time with the hubby and the little one as well. The hubby and I hit two yoga classes in a row together during the week, which I believe hasn't happened in a really, really long time. After a hard day of work, it was good to practice side by side with him, just like how we used to all those years ago. The little one has now started to scribble on pieces of scrap paper and when we are not noticing, on books, bags, and also as of today, the bedspread. She has this habit of running towards me with a huge smile and hugging my legs, in true over the top Bollywood style; when I try to put her down on the floor after holding her for a while, she hooks her legs around mine, just like those guys who would climb coconut trees in Kerala, with as tight a grip as you can imagine and when she is overflowing with love, she would hold my face and gaze at it as if it is the prettiest thing in the world. As you can imagine, I am completely floored.

There is indeed a lot to be grateful for!

Day 189: Astray!

'Astray' is a collection of short stories by Emma Donoghue. I had no clue about the book or the author until I chanced upon it in a bookshop and discovered that it was one of the cheapest books available (Singapore is ridiculous when it comes to prices of books!)

And I must say I am really enjoying reading it.

I love her style of writing. Not too complex, not too simple. Just nice.

I also love that she has put together the collection based on snippets of news headlines from the 19th and early 20th century. Every short story is followed by the details of the news clip that triggered the author's imagination and it's like visualizing a whole story behind the random names that come up on the newpaper. Fascinating!

Now I totally want to read all her other books!

Day 184: 24 Hours of Inferno!

I don't think I have managed to finish reading an entire book in 24 hours, for a really long time now. And definitely haven't managed it post pregnancy. And absolutely not on a weekday.

But as of today, I read Dan Brown's 'Inferno' in less than 24 hours!

The little one woke me up really early in the morning and I didn't feel like going back to bed. So I started on the book while I had my morning coffee, continued reading it on my commute to and from the office, continued it post dinner and very late into the night. And in less than 24 hours, I was done!

Amazing experience! 

Day 107: "Ladies Coupe"!

I am in love with this book, "Ladies Coupe" by Anita Nair!

Like, IN LOVE! 

Based on the lives of six different women who meet inside a ladies coupe in a train, it is one of the best books I have read in terms of character building, with deep insight to the lives of Indian women, especially the ones from the South. 

For the past few days, I have been completely looking forward to my morning and evening commute just so that I can read this book! And today I even stayed up real late so I can read as much of it as I can. 

Staying up to read a book has not happened in a while. Loved the book and the experience!

Day 95: The Works of M. T. Vasudevan Nair!

M. T Vasudevan Nair is a renowned Malayalam author. Even though I had watched a few films based on his stories or scripts, I had never read any of his works before. It was only on my recent visit to India that I had gotten myself a collection of his short stories.

And I finally got down to reading a few of them today.

Man! They are all so beautiful! Simple writing without the use of any bombastic language, heartwarming situations, genuine characters.

I am so enjoying reading his stories! Totally beautified the day, I must say!